The location is Zaragoza Airport, the second largest cargo airport in Spain. A cargo jumbo operated by the airline Atlas Air, departing from Delhi Airport, is about to land. It carries on board around 100 tonnes of textiles for Zara and other brands belonging to the Spanish fashion giant Inditex. They are prepared in Spain for onward shipment to the 5,815 stores located worldwide. A few days later, large batches of them are loaded onto one of the 15 or so cargo planes which take off week-in week-out for Inditex – the main customer at Zaragoza airport – flying to destinations in North and Central America, the Middle East, Asia and also Europe.
Inditex is an outlier among big clothing retailers in not publishing which factories it sources from. Regulators and investors want greater transparency and better disclosure from companies. Clothing retailers, in particular, are under pressure to prove that there is no forced labour in their supply chains, and that garment workers are paid decent wages.
The controversial way fashion brands gauge sustainability is being suspended https://qz.com/2180322/the-controversial-higg-sustainability-index-is-being-suspended
The Higg Index, one of the fashion industry’s most well-known sustainability rating systems, came under sustained criticism this month. A New York Times article called out the index as too favorable to synthetic materials made from fossil fuels; the Intercept dug into the metric’s controversial ties to fast fashion; and the Norway Consumer Authority banned its use (link in Norwegian) in marketing to consumers.
Historically, the apparel trade has exploited labor, the environment, and intellectual property—and in the last three decades, with the simultaneous unfurling of fast fashion, globalization, and the tech revolution, those abuses have multiplied exponentially, primarily out of view. We are in dire need of an entirely new human-scale model.